The real decoration of the garden is considered by right to consider hydrangeas. These decorative flowering shrubs have different shapes, colors of inflorescences, do not require special care. One of the most popular and exquisite varieties is recognized as a hydrangea Pinck Diamond.
Variety description
Tall shrubs with upright, sparsely branched branches, reach a height of more than 2 meters. The shrub is up to 3 meters wide. Young shoots have a bright shade of red-brown. Leaves are dense, dark green, oval in shape with jagged edges and rough texture. Inflorescences are large, up to 30 cm, rather numerous, pyramidal or cone-shaped, consisting of two types of flowers.
The hue of the sterile ones, depending on the season and territorial features, varies from creamy cream to pink and rich purple. The flowers that form fruit are light in color and fall early. Flowering lasts for a long period: from midsummer to the end of September.
Hydrangea melodious Pink Diamond – plant light-loving, but does not tolerate direct sunlight, grows well in the penumbra. The increase in a year is 25-30 cm. It adapts perfectly in any climatic conditions, has high frost resistance, can stand up to -30 degrees in winter.
Information!
It is depressed when plantings are located in draughts.
The Pink Diamond Hydrangea variety is characterized as a plant with a high level of regeneration. Due to the shallow location of the root system, it requires regular soil moistening. Does not respond to high levels of gassiness, so planting is actively used for landscaping in urban areas. Prefers fertile soils with an average acid index.
Care
Planting and caring for Pink Diamond Hydrangea requires no special skills or preparation. The basic requirements for full growth and flowering:
- watering;
- weeding;
- fertilizers;
- Treatment against pests and diseases;
- mulching the soil;
- timely pruning.
Peat, tree bark, grass clippings, sawdust are used as mulch.
Note!
You should not plant on soil with a high level of lime.
When growing in northern regions with a harsh climate, it is required to insulate the shrub for the winter. Construct shelters, ducking branches to the ground and fixing them with wire devices. In the case of light frost damage, remove frosted shoots and feed Hydrangea, it will quickly recover with good care.
Planting and propagation
It is recommended to plant in the spring, when the threat of frost has passed. Practical and popular way is to plant the plant from containers, with a good root system and immunity. For the planned works, preliminary preparation is carried out.
- Choose a site. Ideally, the penumbra near the house, fence or outbuildings will be ideal.
- Planting hole. It is dug taking into account the age of the seedling and the size of the roots, 15-20 cm more.
- Drainage. Be sure to lay out on the bottom of expanded clay, small stones or broken bricks, to prevent water stagnation and rotting of the roots.
- Location. The root neck must be at the same level with the soil, this is a prerequisite.
- Watering. After planting, it is necessary to pour 15-20 liters of water under the bush, preferably not cold and decanted.
- Mulching. To preserve moisture, the layer of mulch around the plants should not be less than 10 cm. Over time, it will decompose and serve as a fertilizer. As necessary, it is renewed.
Single plantings and group plantings are practiced, to create compositions and hedges. Hydrangea is propagated in several ways: by cuttings, shoots, division of the bush.
- Cuttings. A popular and highly effective way is to cut young green cuttings with 2-3 healthy buds. Soak the cuttings in water with the addition of a growth stimulant for 2-3 hours and plant them in a mixture of sand and peat in the proportion 1:2, abundantly moistening the soil. The lower leaves are removed, the upper leaves are cut in half. Covered with a glass jar to create a greenhouse effect. Rooted cuttings within a month. During this time, they should be regularly watered and sprayed. Ready seedlings in the northern regions are planted in the open ground not earlier than a year. In southern regions, plants are planted in early autumn, before the onset of winter are insulated.
- Branching. In early spring, before the buds open, make shallow furrows, put young shoots in them, pinned and covered with earth. In late summer, with regular watering, they will take root. They are dipped every week, forming mounds. In September, the offshoots are separated from each other with a shovel and buried. In the permanent place planted in a year.
- By division. With the onset of stable heat, bushes are carefully dug out, making sure not to damage the roots, and divided into several parts. The root system is washed and shortened along with the branches. Planted immediately in a permanent place on the plot.
You can breed hydrangea in another way, Developed plant in a container in the fall planted, cover. In the spring, when young shoots appear, they are divided, obtaining several young seedlings at the same time.
Fertilizers and fertilizers
Like any plant, the Pink Diamond Hydrangea, requires periodic feeding and fertilizing. Traditionally used:
- dolomite flour;
- chalk;
- peat or humus;
- pine needles;
- urea;
- potassium sulfate;
- slurry;
- superphosphate;
- nitroammophoska.
Tip!
Fertilize three times per season; spring, summer and fall.
Of the folk methods, it is worth noting the effectiveness of using dairy products: kefir, sour milk and whey. They are diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3. Bread supplements ensure intensive growth and abundant flowering. Organic fertilizers are spread by a layer of 10-15 cm. around the bushes in the autumn period. This will serve as fertilizer and additional insulation of the plantings.
Control of diseases and pests
Hydrangea paniculata Pink Diamond is a shrub that is resistant to disease and pest damage. Fading and a change in the color of the leaves, probably provoked by external factors: excessive watering, low soil quality, hot weather. Among the diseases it is worth noting the most common ones.
- Chlorosis. Appears with a lack of iron in the soil and as a result of violations of metabolic processes. Yellowing of leaves, loss of natural color, becoming flaccid, curled and reduced in size. Deformed buds, withering branches. The use of preparations “Antichlorosis” and “Ferovit” is effective.
- White rot. The disease affects the roots, as a result of which the bushes, not getting the necessary nutrition, eventually die. Shoots darken, covered with a white plaque. The fungicides “Phytosporin”, “Fundazole”, “Copper Chloroxide” are used.
- Gray rot. Characterized by softening and wateriness of soft tissues. In the period of heavy rains, pubescence of grayish shades appears. In dry weather, the affected areas locally dry up, die off and crumble, forming holes on the leaves. It is recommended to get rid of the affected leaves, spray with “Chistocvet”, “Fondazol”, “Skor”.
- False powdery mildew. It is easy to visually identify the disease by yellowish-green spots on the leaves, which eventually turn brown and take a clear shape. A purple or gray patina can be seen on the underside of the leaves. Deformed shoots may die in winter. Treatment is carried out with “Aoirin”, “Phytosporin”, “Topaz”, “Skor”.
- Septoriosis. Characteristic small brown spots appear on the leaves and spread quickly. In neglected cases, plantings are left without leaves at all. Treat with copper sulfate, removing the affected parts.
Note!
Occasionally, under certain conditions, such diseases as rust and ring spotting occur, with which there are no ways to combat yet.
Pests affecting hydrangeas include:
- spider mite (“Tiaphos”, “Actarin”, “Fitoferm”, “Lightning”);
- slugs (“Molluscocide”);
- leaf aphids (“Fitoferm”, “Aktara”, “Iskra”, “Zubr”, “Akarin”).
Preventive treatments are recommended before the start of the growing season and after flowering. With proper care, hydrangeas will serve as site decorations for years to come.