Veltheimia is an interesting ornamental plant native to South Africa. We can not say that it is well known among domestic fans, but it is clearly gaining in popularity. The trouble is that the cultivation of Veltheimia in conditions of an ordinary city apartment is complicated by the temperature factor; it is more often found in greenhouses, feels well and on cool verandahs.
Description
Veltheimia is a bulbous crop classified in the asparagus family, although some experts believe it is closer to the lilies. All six known species are similar to each other and because of the peculiarities of flowering they were popularly called the “winter torch”. However, even here there is no unanimity among biologists: there is an opinion that there are only two species. At least two are considered indoor species: Veltheimia capensis and Veltheimia bracteata.
This plant is a perennial. In the wild it grows in shady places, often on the seashore. The bulb is not completely buried in the ground, is oval or pear-shaped, 6-7 cm in diameter, scaly. It is colored purple or light brown. The base of the plant is a rosette of showy leaves. They are light green in color and oval in shape with wavy edges. The leaves can be up to 30 cm long and up to 12 cm wide.
It is one of the rare plants that blooms in winter, and blooms for a very long time, about three months. The flower stalk grows to a height of about half a meter and has a brush-like inflorescence on it. It consists of over 50 tubular flowers in a drooping pose, varying in shades of pink or salmon-coloured, sometimes almost white or yellowish. The background coloration of the bractal veltheimia is greenish, that of the capsicum is light red.
Planting and care
Veltheimia are usually purchased in the form of bulbs. Careful inspection upon purchase should be made for the slightest signs of rot.
The best time for planting is the very beginning of autumn.
The pot is taken in a regular shape; its diameter should be at least twice the diameter of the bulb. In addition to the holes in the bottom of the pot, a drainage layer – 2-3 cm of claydite or small stones – is necessary.
Soil
Any soil mixture for indoor flowers is suitable as a soil, but you should check whether it has good air permeability and retains moisture. Too dense soils can be corrected by adding peat or perlite. If you prepare your own soil, you can take equal parts of fertile garden soil, perlite (it can be replaced by coarse sand) and peat, adding a couple of spoons of burnt lime per pot. Plant the bulb shallowly, leaving the neck on the surface. At first the pot is kept at room temperature, the soil – slightly moist. As the leaves start to grow, watering is increased.
Temperature
Veltheimia is a relatively unpretentious plant. The most difficult thing in its care is to maintain the necessary air temperature. It should never be high. So, during the growth of leaves and formation of the flower stalks the temperature has to be kept at 18 … 20 degrees, and as soon as the flower stalks start to grow (October – November) it must be reduced to 10 … 12 degrees. Otherwise, it is not possible to achieve blooming, which is why the veltheimia is only conditionally considered as a room flower.
Lighting
There are certain lighting requirements. During the dormancy period, she does not need light, the pot can be kept in the shade. But as soon as the leaves begin to grow (usually it happens in September), it is transferred to the brightest place, avoiding direct sunlight. At the same time you should make sure that there is no drafts in the room. After the end of flowering the pot is moved to the penumbra: there the plant remains with green leaves, which begins to drop only with the advent of summer.
Watering and humidity
Water the veltgeum in moderation: frequently, but sparingly. You should try to keep the moisture of the soil to a minimum and not too much. During dormancy (summer), watering is almost unnecessary, during flowering the amount of moisture required increases. Many flower growers practice watering “from below”, through the tray, because water to the neck of the bulb is undesirable.
Water should have a temperature no lower than room temperature and not be too hard.
As for air humidity, it should be moderate.
Fertilizer
Fertilizers begin to be applied 4 months after planting and do it monthly at the same time as watering. The greatest need of the plant in fertilizers – preparation for flowering and flowering itself. Fertilizers are given in spring, and stop in summer, during the dormant period. Fertilizers are applied in liquid form, using special compositions for indoor flowers with reduced nitrogen content.
Pruning
Pruning as such is not necessary for the flower, but as the flower stems, shoots and leaves die off, they are gently removed. Once every two or three years, transplant the veltgeum into a new pot, replacing the soil completely. This is done in early September by removing the rotten and withered roots.
Propagation
The main method of propagation Veltheimia – bulb-children, much less often use the sowing of seeds. As with most bulbous plants, small bulbs, called cotyledons, grow on the sides of the adult bulb, closer to its base, at the beginning of the dormancy period. Their number is usually small: no more than a dozen. To separate the offspring, the bulb has to be dug out, so multiplication in this way also involves replanting. It is done in early autumn.
The offspring are separated manually, easily. If they get damaged in the process, it is worth to cover this place with crushed charcoal. Plant baby bulbs in the same way as adult bulbs, without sinking, but the pots should be low and wide. In each pot you can plant a few pieces (however, you can also use any crate). Babies grow to adulthood slowly, flowering can be expected only after three years, rarely after two. Until then, the young bulbs should be transplanted into real pots.
Seed propagation is used less frequently. You can get seeds only by applying artificial pollination, but they are often sold in stores. Seeds are sown in autumn in wet sand, deepening on 2-3 mm. Germination occurs in 15-20 days: during this period, the container should be covered with glass, which is periodically lifted for airing. Strengthened seedlings with a clump of earth are transplanted into separate pots. Such plants will flower no sooner than in four years.
Possible problems
The most common problem is the lack of flowering, the reason for this phenomenon is almost always the same: too high air temperature. Much less often insufficient light is to blame. With excessive watering, rotting of the bulb can occur, which in severe cases leads to the death of the plant. Diseases, in addition to overwatering, can also be provoked by draughts.
Fungal diseases, which are brought in with poor-quality soil or organic fertilizers, are mostly characteristic of veltgeum. Aphids can also bring the sooty fungus, because this plant is not always in an enclosed space. “Soot fungus” to begin with should be washed off with water, but often this does not solve the problem, and fungicides have to be used. Severely affected fragments of the plant should be carefully removed. If the damage is transferred to the bulb, the soil is also treated with a fungicide solution.
Conclusion
Veltheimia is still a rare potted plant in our country, grown in cool rooms. It can be found in greenhouses, winter gardens, closed terraces. The peculiarity of the plant is that it blooms in winter time, and very long and beautiful.
